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  • PowderGuru
    replied
    Liquid 2 Powder

    Check this stuff out, It's Called Liquid To Powder,

    DESCRIPTION:

    This new product allows you to powder coat nontraditional substrates such as wood, plastic, ceramics, foam, etc. Using this product, you can also easily apply graphics and other custom designs or artwork via powder coat in a precise and detailed manner.

    This product offers ultimate versatility for powder coating as the powder solution can be sprayed on with an airbrush, HVLP gun, or brushed on like a normal liquid paint and then cured like a traditional powder coat leaving a very durable and smooth finish behind.

    APPLICATION GUIDE:

    Initial prep is simple, equipment needed to apply is minimal, and an airbrush works just fine. If you are using a HVLP gun, the nozzle (tip) must be 2.4mm or higher.

    Mix any color or type of powder coat with the liquid 2 powder solution by weight 50/50 (Ex: if you have 1/2lb of powder, you must mix it with a 1/2lb of liquid).

    You want the solution to be thick enough to flow out smooth, however, if it is too thick or does not spray well then you may add distilled water to thin your powder/liquid solution out.

    You must let the paint fully air dry before curing or it will out gas. Once the coating is fully air dried, follow the recommended cure schedule for the powder coat base. Cure temperatures will range from 300 F to 450 F depending on the particular powder used.

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    This is the link for you to follow to buy this product from our website.







    Attached Files
    Last edited by PowderGuru; 06-16-2014, 10:50 AM. Reason: adding info

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    thanks for the reply, Josh. Sounds like I'm heading in the right direction just need more practice. I think my inexperience contributes, applying second coat a bit too thick was partly to blame. I've gotten a little better.

    With paints I can knock down any ridges a bit by wet sanding or buffing prior to clear, and was just curious if there is a similar technique with powders.
    tom

    Leave a comment:


  • Streetwerkz
    replied
    after mask & second coat put you item in the over for a few minutes, just til it starts to melt.
    then pull it out, remove the masking & finish curing.
    this will allow the transition to lay down alot better, but will still be slightly noticeable.

    Leave a comment:


  • X33302dz
    started a topic Lettering / multicoats

    Lettering / multicoats

    Hey all-
    I've read some old posts about lettering and pinstriping and have started to play around with this a bit. I am practicing on an old license plate. The numbers, state name and border are all a goldenrod color. The rest of the plate is like a midnight blue. I bead blasted the plate and applied a goldenrod color to the whole plate first. Next will come a coat of the blue. I plan to use crepe paper modeling tape to mask the numbers, state name and border. I'll probably just use the wet finger to wipe off some of the powder...a combination of steps as I've read about here.

    My question is about the transition, or edge, between the colors. Parts I've practiced on so far seem to have a noticable "ridge" where the tape was, or where I've wiped off powder. It is very sharp and a clean edge (happy about that), but even with a clear coat it is still noticable, makes sense- mil meter shows the thickness difference.

    Am I doing something wrong? Is there a method to keeping the mil thickness to a less noticable level? Is it because my base coat was fully cured when I applied the tape and then removed the tape just as the sceond coat started to gel? This was on a flat surface, not a raised number surface.

    I want to get some feedback before I try the raised numbers on my license plate!
    Last edited by PowderGuru; 06-27-2014, 02:38 PM.
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