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No problems here, But if i remember correctly move the gun further away from your part turn down the kv to maybe 30-40 then go lower if that dont work.
I'm shooting everything at a lower KV setting in the winter, because it's so dry. All the extra static in the air goes on/in the parts for a quicker charge build up, so you shouldn't need as much kv.
I'm shooting everything at a lower KV setting in the winter, because it's so dry. All the extra static in the air goes on/in the parts for a quicker charge build up, so you shouldn't need as much kv.
So is this why i have no prob. w/2coats now but in the summer all HeII Breaks Loose?
any one haveing any issues with back ironization??????
Back Ionization from Humidity
turn down your Kv's as low as possible until it just starts to attracts to the part...Turn you air up as high as possible and farther away from the part mving the gun bak and forth quickly
if it s on the first coat i lower to about 40 kv turn up slightly the powder volume try to stay at least 10 inches from part . try to cover part in a single pass to avoid having to go back over the same spots and saturating the part with static.
i usually get best result moving gun just fast enough to have a nice velvet like layer .
sorry Shelly but moving the gun back and forth quickly never gave good results for me (usually uneven coverage ,orange peel,and missed areas on more complex parts)
if you clean the part with air before coating , keep nit to a minimum because it builds up static on the part.
maybe you get better result at 180 because 1 heating the parts for sa few minutes releases any static buildup on the part and 2 the part being warm you don t have to stay as long over the same area to cover it so your are not saturating the part with static .
if you already reduce the kv s and moved further away from the part then you should make your powder cloud richer (more powder ) so you can put on the same amount of powder in less time and less static buildup on the part
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