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Does anyone use a vinyl cutter to do custom masking? If so do you use the regular vinyl like for stickers and signs or do you use something else? Where do you get your supplies?
I use vinyl for masking regularly. The best vinyl I have found to use is Oracal 651. The other vinyls I have tried all jeave adhesive residue on the part when you heat it up. The vinyls cant handle a full cure cycle and I usually remove them at about 250-270 deg.
I use vinyl for masking regularly. The best vinyl I have found to use is Oracal 651. The other vinyls I have tried all jeave adhesive residue on the part when you heat it up. The vinyls cant handle a full cure cycle and I usually remove them at about 250-270 deg.
Thanks Auto-Cycle PC. It looks like you are my only source for help on this subject. I am going to get the vinyl you recommend and see how it works. I am new to pcing and I'm trying to learn everything possible in hopes to open a small shop here where I live.
The wheels are sweet. The stripe turned out real nice. How did you lay out the masking for that
I just measured across the wheel to get the diameter and drew a circle in my sign software then stepped it out twice 1/8" each and applied the whole three circles to the wheel lip and peeled out the 1/8" line I wanted the stripe to be. Masked the rest of the outside lip as normal and coated. I put it in the oven till flow out and peeled all the masking off and cured as normal.
I bought a 24" Copam 2500 off Ebay from US Cutters. They have very good reviews on the sign maker forums I researched. Cutter and software was about $800 delivered. You can go with a smaller cutter and do most things you would want to. Another plus for this one is it will cut cut thicker materials like Sandmask also.
The black was in the oven until complete flow out. Now it's masked and ready for the next color that lime green in the background. Should I take the tape off after shooting the next color BEFORE going in the oven or can I put it in there for a few minutes to help "set" the powder, take out ( BEFORE flowout ) cool and THEN take the tape off? Is there a rule of thumb for cases like this...to know if and for how long it can be put in the oven before being ruined or is it trial and error? I'm going to use a trimmed down funnel tip to try and get better pc coverage inside the hub.
I would leave it in to about 250-260 the peel the tape off an clean off any overspray/residue the finish the cure cycle. If you use the 1/8" tape to trim with it makes your lines much cleaner because it can be removed first and quickly then remove the remainder of the masking.
I would leave it in to about 250-260 the peel the tape off an clean off any overspray/residue the finish the cure cycle. If you use the 1/8" tape to trim with it makes your lines much cleaner because it can be removed first and quickly then remove the remainder of the masking.
Thats how I did masking when I painted cars. Using the smaller size tape makes it easier to put your edge masking on also. Then you can go crazy on the rest of the area.
Does anyone use aluminum foil for their large areas
It is trial and error to a point, you don't want the tape you're using to leave any adhesive on the part.[/quote]
Boy you ain't lying there! The trimmed down funnel piece worked great for the small holes, but I can't say much for the rest! I thought I'd put it in the oven until it just starts to gel, it ended up being @ 4 1/2 min..I think the main prob was that thin blue tape, cause I did kind of like the "instructions" for doing a 2 color letter job on the other forum, but that was with paper tape. What a mess! I peeled it all off, cleaned off the trash and cured it anyway just to see what would happen for future reference. The outer edge of the rim DID flow back out, but the flat areas next to the green didn't flow quite enough. The green/black edge flowed back pretty good also. I'm going to sand it smooth and try the black again ( taking the tape off while still in powder form this time! ) when i get back.
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