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I had the same issues. I knocked the pin out of the henge and took the handle off of the deadman valve. I placed a ball valve between the hose and the deadman valve. It serves the same purpose as the deadman did but it has to be activated manually. It is also a lot easier on your hand during long jobs as you are not having to hold the handle down all the time. I have used this setup for over a year with not issues to date. I hope this helps.
mine has a ball valve as well. be warned though, you will have to replace the ball valve just as you have to change the blocks in the dead man sooner or later. the sand just eats the stuff up, all of it.
I had the same issues. I knocked the pin out of the henge and took the handle off of the deadman valve. I placed a ball valve between the hose and the deadman valve. It serves the same purpose as the deadman did but it has to be activated manually. It is also a lot easier on your hand during long jobs as you are not having to hold the handle down all the time. I have used this setup for over a year with not issues to date. I hope this helps.
That's what I wanted to hear. I've NEVER used the valve on the dead man anyway, mainly because it has been like this since day one after blasting for a couple of hours and because I'm too much of a pussy to hold that thing open for too long. I tied a zip tie around the handle so now it stays open all the time. I plan on running to HD and picking up a ball valve today, just wanted to see if anyone else was doing the same thing before I spend time and money on it. Thanks man!
I also added a ball valve to mine just remember its for on and off only not to regulate the flow and the valve should last a long time.
Sweet. I'll go ahead and just continue to regulate the air and media through the two other valves on the pressure pot, and just turn it on/off with this one. Thanks.
If you're still wondering it's caused by not holding the valve all the way open and you actually blast the end off. Keep an eye on your ceramic tips to as they will wear and you will eat air quickly and not neccessarily blast faster. In most cases as the tip wears it blast less.
If you're still wondering it's caused by not holding the valve all the way open and you actually blast the end off. Keep an eye on your ceramic tips to as they will wear and you will eat air quickly and not neccessarily blast faster. In most cases as the tip wears it blast less.
Just noticed the tip is pretty worn out, unfortunately I sold my small cabinet and gave all my deadman tips to the guy on accident! Arrg.. I can either call him and get them or go down the street and see if HF has some replacement ones. Arrg.
The block that closes off the flow, on the end of my deadman, rotates. Tighten the pivot pont too much and bye bye block. It looks like you have a bolt, nut and block assembly on the end of yours. Can that be loosened off to allow the block to move?
The block that closes off the flow, on the end of my deadman, rotates. Tighten the pivot pont too much and bye bye block. It looks like you have a bolt, nut and block assembly on the end of yours. Can that be loosened off to allow the block to move?
I went ahead and just removed that rubber block, next I'll pull the pin and remove the entire trigger assembly.
Put a new tip in the nozzle and it works like a charm, time to get back in there and finish those wheels!
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