Acrylic Clear Problem

[Guest]

After reading about the post with the hotrod frame that the clear cracked on I now have the same problem. I did a pair of hubs (front and back) for a Triumph in SD Wet Black and then acrylic clear. The hubs are both different sizes. The front is to pieces for a disk and the rear is one piece for a drum. The black was cured for 10 min at 400 and then cooled and then the clear for 15 min at 325. Both times are PMT with my infrared gun. The clear is not bonded to the lack any were on either part. I tried to get a picture but it just was not clear enough. All it would take was a tap with a screw driver and the clear would blister from the black and then you could peel it off with a finger nail. I used the clear because of the extra depth that the clear offers. Any ideas on what happened? I thought maybe under cured but the smaller hubs have the same problems. I can't remember but I may have done the black at night and the clear next morning. If that was the cases then I would have warmed up the parts but could they have not been warm enough?

[Guest]

Re: Acrylic Clear Problem

The Post you are referring to was not PBTP Powders, so it does not apply. The SD Wet Black does not need a clear coat and the acyrlic will not add any depth to the SD Wet Black.

[Guest]

Re: Acrylic Clear Problem

I know I am new to powder coat
But I have been painting cars for 35 short years.
It could be that the black gloss you apply is so high gloss when cured the lacquer has nothing to grip to.
As in wet spray lacquer will peel if there is nothing for it to grip to
have you ever tried to gently scotch the surface with a scotch pad or foam scouring pad.
this will leave a slightly dulled finnish to the black but when lacquered will not show, but will give the lacquer something to attach to.
Its worth a try.
Hope I can help in some way as you are all so helpful on here
.

[Guest]

Re: Acrylic Clear Problem

forget my last bit then

[Guest]

Re: Acrylic Clear Problem

Okay, so you're saying the rims I just did with SD Wet Black and cleared with SD Crystal Clear are going to start peeling????????????????? Are you serious???? I have been told Wet Black doesn't need clearing but no one said it wouldn't stick!!!!

[Guest]

Re: Acrylic Clear Problem

I do believe the answer you're looking for lies in here.

The biggest mistakes in a two coat system:

There still appears to be a lot of confusion about what is the correct process when using multiple coats. From this response, there are as many questions left unanswered as answered. For example:

Some powders cannot be second coated, even with the same powder? I knew this to be true of the hi-temp silicone powders, but does it also apply to others?

It's generally been stated that most if not all metallics need to be clear coated if used outdoors. Is this true and if so what is the process? Fully cure the metallic coat or just half cure? Solid colors can generally be scuffed/lightly sanded and clear coated. With metallics sanding is generally not recommended.

What about primers? Should they be fully or partially cured? Sanded after cure?

The acrylic clears should not be used as top coats as they are a different composition from Polyester/TGIC powders? So is something like the super durable high gloss clear a better option for a TGIC basecoat?

[Guest]

Re: Acrylic Clear Problem

OK.. now i am jumping on this bandwagon I am in the process of polishing a lip on a rim. My intent was to shoot SD Wet Black with a clear coat to protect the polish. Now, if i am understanding correctly... i use the mirrow black with my acrylic clear?

[Guest]

Re: Acrylic Clear Problem

OK.. now i am jumping on this bandwagon I am in the process of polishing a lip on a rim. My intent was to shoot SD Wet Black with a clear coat to protect the polish. Now, if i am understanding correctly... i use the mirrow black with my acrylic clear?

This is my question also I just did a wet blk centers with the outer lip left polished then the whole rim coated with clear. Am I about to eat four hundred plus dollars??????????

[Guest]

Re: Acrylic Clear Problem

OK.. now i am jumping on this bandwagon I am in the process of polishing a lip on a rim. My intent was to shoot SD Wet Black with a clear coat to protect the polish. Now, if i am understanding correctly... i use the mirrow black with my acrylic clear?

This is my question also I just did a wet blk centers with the outer lip left polished then the whole rim coated with clear. Am I about to eat four hundred plus dollars??????????

[BeeBob]

Re: Acrylic Clear Problem

I do believe the answer you're looking for lies in here.

The biggest mistakes in a two coat system:

There still appears to be a lot of confusion about what is the correct process when using multiple coats. From this response, there are as many questions left unanswered as answered. For example:

Some powders cannot be second coated, even with the same powder? I knew this to be true of the hi-temp silicone powders, but does it also apply to others?

It's generally been stated that most if not all metallics need to be clear coated if used outdoors. Is this true and if so what is the process? Fully cure the metallic coat or just half cure? Solid colors can generally be scuffed/lightly sanded and clear coated. With metallics sanding is generally not recommended.

What about primers? Should they be fully or partially cured? Sanded after cure?

The acrylic clears should not be used as top coats as they are a different composition from Polyester/TGIC powders? So is something like the super durable high gloss clear a better option for a TGIC basecoat?

These and some other subject answers on some sort of "information handout" at the upcoming rodeo sure would be nice to have info! Hint...Hint!

[Guest]

Re: Acrylic Clear Problem

These and some other subject answers on some sort of "information handout" at the upcoming rodeo sure would be nice to have info! Hint...Hint!

I agree!!!

[Guest]

Re: Acrylic Clear Problem

Maybe there are to many variables involved to give these questions yes/no answers but I would like to see some general guidelines if at all possible. Here is a list I composed.

Powder coat guideline questions:

Primers:
Primers should be fully/partially cured, then sanded?, before base coat is applied

Metallic:
Metallic colors to be used outdoors should be clear coated? True/False
Metallic colors should be fully/partially cured before the clear-coat is applied
Metallic colors should/should not be sanded prior to clear-coat

Clear coats:
Clears should generally be of the same powder type as the base coat? True or False
Acrylic clears should be limited to use over polished/bare metal parts and not be used as a topcoat over a powder coat base. True or False

Hi-Gloss:
High gloss solid colors should not be cleared or multi-coated without some sanding between coats. True or False
If True, what types of powders are considered hi-gloss: Mirrors, Wets, Others?

Epoxy:
Epoxy powders to be used outdoors should be clear coated with what type clears.
The epoxy base color should be fully/partially cured before applying clear.

Hybrids/Polyurethane/Polyester TGIC/Bonded:
Do any of the above answers change based on the powder formulation?

[Guest]

Re: Acrylic Clear Problem

OK.. now i am jumping on this bandwagon I am in the process of polishing a lip on a rim. My intent was to shoot SD Wet Black with a clear coat to protect the polish. Now, if i am understanding correctly... i use the mirrow black with my acrylic clear?

This is my question also I just did a wet blk centers with the outer lip left polished then the whole rim coated with clear. Am I about to eat four hundred plus dollars??????????

Someone correct me if i'am wrong please,but i think the wet black is ok with a clear and the
SD WET BLACK you do not want to clear

scott

[Guest]

Re: Acrylic Clear Problem

Someone correct me if i'am wrong please,but i think the wet black is ok with a clear and the
SD WET BLACK you do not want to clear

scott

This is what I have been told, at least for SD Wet Black, no clear! "It doesn't need one!"

[Guest]

Re: Acrylic Clear Problem

I don't know where to begin:

Cindy you are fine

HJ heads you are fine

Ed1966ss-you are correct, there are too many variables, and many different case senario's

Primers: It depends on the primer - KL Primer can be 1/2 cured if you do not need to sand it and are using a polyester topcoat..

Metallics: We recommend you fully bake - do not hotflock-if the finish is too thin then you can add a second coat of metallic but not required and yes Clear Coat.

Clears: False, if you fully bake the basecoat it does not apply, Acyril should be used over metallic powders. If you like to use them with polyester or urethane, not a problem as long as the basecoat is fully cured.

Epoxy: Used for chemical resistance or hardness, indoor use only. Expoxy powders do not come in a large range of colors and are more expensive than Polyester or urethanes..If you use them outside, yes you must put a topcoat that is UV stable



High Gloss-If you want high gloss you must fully cure...sanding is a no brainer, buffing not sanding. Gloss is stated on the website-that is how you choose your gloss level

Last One: Everything changes predicated on the Blender - not all powders are created equal

Impact Resitance
Pencil Hardness
Flexibilty
Overbake resistance
Cross Hatch Adhesion, ect.

The above matter per application, that is why asking specific questions per application if it is complicated matters.