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I have some 100yr old parts off of a stanley steemer that are very deeply pitted with rust. The guy wants to reuse as many original parts as he can and is asking for two coats of wet black to smooth them out some. My question is what can I do to best insure the rust from returning since they are so deeply pitted. I am a little worried that as good as I can blast them I still will miss some small pockets of rust. Any advise would be appreciated Thanks.
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Re: Rust question
I have never tried the brush or spray on rust coverters under powder, but would something like that hold up to the heat? -
Re: Rust question
Ya steel/iron bars.......these are the worst pieces (8 of them) they are fender supports I think........thanks HarleyOriginally posted by Harleydad
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Re: Rust question
That was sorta what I was wondering if anyone had experiance with also.Originally posted by rcollinsComment
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Re: Rust question
Those parts are REALLY pitted!Originally posted by slowdrive
I have experience wet-painting parts in this condition, but not powder coating them.
This is the direction I would go -
I haven't used any, but Zinc primer is recommended to PREVENT rust - don't know if it would hold it back from coming through in a situation like this. Check with King. With that heavy of pitting there is definitely rust hiding in there somewhere that will resurface...
From what I have seen the KL primer should help you level-off the surface . You may have to prime/sand, prime/sand, etc..., to really level it out. Depends on how much he wants to spend on it I guess.
You could do some sanding or light grinding to try to reduce the depth of the craters (knock down the peaks) before coating also.
Jay V
ILComment
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Re: Rust question
You might contact Safestrustremover.com and see what they say about coating over their stuff. I know it works on taking rust off and it keeps it off for quite awhile after rinsing.Comment
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Re: Rust question
So rust can come back after powder coating? I thought that it seals the air out and therefor starves the rust from oxygen. A primary ingredient to rust. Similar to POR15...Comment
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Re: Rust question
From what I was told years ago is that rust has moisture in it. You would think after blasting and pre heating that if any rust color that was left it wouldn't be able to do any move damage if coated quickly? Rust is a metal cancer. When working on auto body parts you do all you can on rusted areas. But you don't have the opp for 400 degrees in an oven!
fast etch should work well and can be bought in small amounts. I have the last I guess of a product that would take care of the rust and my guess it would coat without a problem? You paint over it so why not coat? Most all rust converters or close to the same. Jasco (at Lowe's and I guess Home Depot) makes one that might work well? Have to try it and see if the powder and it would work together.
Some of you pros out there should know what would happen if the powder did good on top would it hold up well and stay?
Well there is my 2 cents I guess
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Re: Rust question
What about using a Wrikle powder. It should hide most of it. Looks good too.Comment
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Re: Rust question
You'll be doing ALOT of coats even with the KL primer as bad as those things are pitted!
I like the wrinkle idea. Grind a little, prime alot, sand smooth and go for the wrinkle. Show the cust a wrinkle piece and explain it'll help cover the pitting, ya never know he might go for it!
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Re: Rust question
You should be able to use this product to reshape the parts back to nearly new condition. You may have to work just one end at a time, and it may get expensive due to the labor, but if the customer is looking for 'restoration', this might be a way to go.
It's the best I've found so far. Beats the hell out of lab metal and thermobond3. Goes on just like bondo, has about the same working time as bondo and sands about the same too. So far, I've had very good results. Most of my repairs have been on really bad spots on Patty O' stuff. It's mostly aluminum, so getting powder to stick isn't an issue either.
http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merc ... ry_Code=FMComment
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Re: Rust question
So that All Metal will take the heat? Ive seen my dad use that stuff for body filler, but I though it was bound together with a plastic filler.Comment
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Re: Rust question
This might interest you guys?
http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merc ... _Code=6RCC
Look at the last one? Looks like it works the same as metal prep but might just be the better?
And I think the All Metal is the ticket we need. The JB weld is great but have to wait for it to cure correct so the All Metal will for sure speed things up a lot when needing to get something done and out the door for sure. I am going to get my some of it ASAP. Just checking to see what auto parts stores I have a business account with if they can get it?Comment
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Re: Rust question
My first crack with this stuff, like I said, was on a piece of patio furniture - a rusted out spot on one of the tubing legs that I filled with a small section of heavy wall pipe first, then welded that in place, filled the low spots with welded beads as much as I could, ground down for a rough shape, blasted, mixed up some All Metal and from that point on it was like normal bodywork. I'll post some before/after pics soon.Originally posted by GONGCHUAN
My next use was today, on a peice of cast iron. A decorative post for a bird bath that was originally in two halves (split lengthwise). It had one machine screw holding it together, but about a 1/16" gap ran the full length down opposing sides. Both ends were tack welded, so I couldn't take it completely apart. There was some sort of putty or plaster filling the cracks, but blasting took that off like it wasn't there. I mixed up some All Metal, filled both seams and I'll be doing my final sanding/shaping tomorrow.
The hotrod guys next door use it all the time to rebuild/reconstruct pieces of trim or parts that are just impossible to find. I've got a pretty good batch of them waiting to be done. I'll try to get some good B&A shots of some of these odds-n-ends.
So far, so good. I'm going to try some on a Sportster tank as soon as I can.Comment
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Re: Rust question
CPC-2, PLEASE KEEP US INFORMED WITH YOUR RESULTS OF THIS STUFF. IT WAS JUST OVER A YEAR AGO WHEN I WAS TRYING TO FIND AN ANSWER LIKE THIS. THAT'S WHEN I SENT YOU THE SOLDER THAT I HAD NO LUCK WITH. I AM JUST ABOUT DONE TAKING MY BIKE APART SO I CAN POWDER THE FRAME AND SHEET METAL. THERE ARE SOME IMPERFECTIONS IN THE SHEET METAL THAT HOPEFULY THE "ALL METAL" WILL TAKE CARE OF. LOOKING FORWARD TO YOUR RESULTS.
THANKS
RONComment
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