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Curing at Part metal temperature!

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  • Curing at Part metal temperature!

    This is such an important step to insure proper curing of your powder.

    I DO NOT CARE IF YOUR LABEL ON THE POWDER SAYS WAIT UNTIL FLOW OUT! EX:Eastwood's labels say this and its WRONG. (Don't cure like this)

    I have done test panels that took only 2-5 minutes to heat up, and I just did thick steel tubes that took 10 minutes just to get to 400F.

    Buy an Inferred Thermometer, a good one. This will be one of the best tools you will ever use in powder coating.

    If the instructions tell you 400f/10 minutes this is what I do:

    1.) Coat part around 95F-150F (Higher temp only if its a difficult substrate to coat). Some clear coats require the substrate to be completely cool before applying; you need to double check on this.

    2.) Place substrate in the oven.

    3.) Wait around 2-5 minutes then open the oven. Use your IR gun and shoot the part around 1-2 inches away and see what the temperature is.

    4.) When the temperature reaches your curing schedule (400f) start your timer.

    5.) About half way through the timer I check the substrate temperature again just to be sure everything is the same or better.


    Troubleshooting:

    1.) My part never gets to 400F etc.

    a.) Bump up your temperature on the oven.

    b.) You are shooting a part of the substrate that might be reflective and bouncing the IR laser somewhere else.

    c.) You are trying to shoot your IR gun through the oven window. This will not work do not try it.


    2.) How can I tell if my substrate is under cured?

    a.) Do the MEK test. Buy some MEK and a lint free rag. Pour some of the MEK on the rag and rub it against your cured and cooled substrate about 2-4 times back and fourth. If there is no color on the rag from your powder coating you have cured correctly.

    b.) Sand blast the substrate. If the substrate's powder coat is easily blasted of you are under curing.


    3.) How do I fix under curing?

    a.) Leave substrate in the oven longer. If I see a cure schedule of 400F/10 minutes, I cure at 400F-430F for 20 minutes assuming you have a good over bake stability powder.


    I hope this helps and if you have any questions please post. Also if you have anything to add please post.

  • #2
    Re: Curing at Part metal temperature!

    THANKS THIS HELPS

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Curing at Part metal temperature!

      It sucks opening the door and seing the temperature drop 30 degrees.

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Curing at Part metal temperature!

        What sucks more is under curing your parts
        Originally posted by GHOST
        It sucks opening the door and seing the temperature drop 30 degrees.

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Curing at Part metal temperature!

          If you want your parts to last in the field and get the gloss level you are aiming for you MUST cure your parts all the way out, most products have overbake stability...do not try to cross link metallic's with clear top coats (you will not be happy with the results)....if you are having problems..call us that is what we are here for...

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Curing at Part metal temperature!

            Calling is the best way to get information quickly when you need it!


            I appreciate all of the conversations from the PBTP crew. They bring the industrial world to the job shop world, and they know the inn's and outs of booth.

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            • #7
              Re: Curing at Part metal temperature!

              Well threw my experiance thats all right.
              good post

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Curing at Part metal temperature!

                CURE YOUR PARTS OR LOSE THEM !

                Originally posted by Auto-Cycle PC
                No I would probably have passed the BBS on by. They are for the local vintage wheel & tire retailer. I have done over 50 wheels for then in the last 2 mos then they dropped the 26 off today. They are already powder primed so its a quick wipe down and shoot. Their previous powder coater was really screwing them up by under curing them and the powder was chipping right off and from what I have seen really badly. I went to their warehouse today and there is a section with somewhere between 250-500 bad wheels and they are talking about me stripping and recoating them all.

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                • #9
                  Re: Curing at Part metal temperature!

                  very good information here. it just amazes me how the people at PBTP are right here helping us all in every way they can. you just don't see it much now a days. i have a question on your statement about having the IR gun only inches away from the part when checking the temp. first let me say that all that i know about my IR gun is to push the button and point, and change the battery. when i check my part i have a window that i open and shoot the parts through there. i am anywhere from 6" to 5' away from the parts with my gun when i am doing this. am i getting a good / accurate reading this way ?? what are your thoughts ?? does anyone have a good way to explain the functons of these guns ?? do's and don'ts. why for's and why for not's. LOL its gettin late. any info will be greatly appreciated as always !!
                  thanks
                  ron

                  also want to say thanks for correcting my thoughts that it was better to bring the parts up to temp slowly to avoid OP.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Curing at Part metal temperature!

                    Originally posted by SKOOTERBUM

                    also want to say thanks for correcting my thoughts that it was better to bring the parts up to temp slowly to avoid OP.
                    This is very true on thicker parts but can have an opposite effect on thinner parts coming up to temp too fast and not having time to completely flow before the powder starts to cross link.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Curing at Part metal temperature!

                      Originally posted by SKOOTERBUM
                      very good information here. it just amazes me how the people at PBTP are right here helping us all in every way they can. you just don't see it much now a days. i have a question on your statement about having the IR gun only inches away from the part when checking the temp. first let me say that all that i know about my IR gun is to push the button and point, and change the battery. when i check my part i have a window that i open and shoot the parts through there. i am anywhere from 6" to 5' away from the parts with my gun when i am doing this. am i getting a good / accurate reading this way ?? what are your thoughts ?? does anyone have a good way to explain the functons of these guns ?? do's and don'ts. why for's and why for not's. LOL its gettin late. any info will be greatly appreciated as always !!
                      thanks
                      ron

                      also want to say thanks for correcting my thoughts that it was better to bring the parts up to temp slowly to avoid OP.
                      Skooterbum,

                      Your IR gun should have the range and accuracy sticker on the gun its self. If not you need to check the manual. If I hit the part 5-6 inches away it will read more of the oven temp than the part temp. I would think that with any gun closer is better.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Curing at Part metal temperature!

                        OK, Just for curiosity sake, those who do, lets say, steel car wheel. How long, when put into a 400* oven, does it take to get to temp? The reason I ask, I most allways fill my oven cold, then turn on. It takes approx 45 min to heat up to 400. So part is slowly heating too. about 30 min from 300-400* though. I usually start timing when oven temp around 380. PMT is usually 360 or so, I would guess, powder is allways flowed out for a couple minutes before I start timing. I have never trusted IR guns on powder. I have a Raytek Raynger ST and most times it will read PMT hotter before flow out. Once powder glosses over and cures, gun reads 20* or so lower. Every time I try to calibrate with a flat black piece, seems dead on. But like today. Did an old Solid Iron Tractor wheel. Oven got to 410, Checked piece, read 380, Oven down to 400, cured for 17min, NIC Ink Black. Just before I took wheel out, I measured again, 360* Powder is hard and I am 99% sure its cured. I cant seem to find MEK in town here, so I cant do a scrub test.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Curing at Part metal temperature!

                          speaking about the i/r guns.i really can't get a good reading on them at all.i've tried 3 different i/r guns and they seem to be all over the place.shinny parts or not.What brand guns are you all using????

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: Curing at Part metal temperature!

                            Same here. I use my IR gun and it never seems to tell me what I feel is correct. I have what I call a peep door that I take the temps with. I have just put it at the door opening and used the laser, as well as stick my arm through the opening and took the temps. Drives me nuts!! I must be stupid or something, cause I can never get this thing to work right (or like I think is right). Reads temps all different on the same piece. So When I think everything is going like it should, I cure it for five more minutes. Right or wrong, that's where I feel comfortable.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: Curing at Part metal temperature!

                              How close are you getting to the part? My gun measures a 1" circle @ 10"s. I used to take temps from a distance and got readings all over the place. I moved closer and my readings became much more consistent. Another member - can't remember who wrote that too far back and you pick up more oven temp than part temp. Seems to make sense as the further back you are the bigger the measuring circle. The laser is only for aiming purposes.

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