Well guys I have bee doing a lot of research on rust removers and rust killers.
What got me back into this are these 5 30's spoke wheels that almost impossible to get to with blasting. Just ain't goina happen. They need dipping to soak into the mounts of the spokes.
I have be using products like this from the late 70's under auto filler and primer and painting especially when blasting was out of the question or just no way to get to it. Never had a problem if done right and using a good product. I tried over the years a bunch of them.
Now you old/young hard core PCers might say no way I am using that sht and then I say just work your "A" off and hope I guess or pay out the nose for what you do use? Not my pocket and not my time but its yours. Also this can help smaller guys with small areas to work in.
Now a lot of these rust killers have an acid part to them and they might work without a problem if retreated correct before coating. Some I know little about. You can neutralize acid.
Here are some that are acid free.
EW rust dissolver/organic rust treatment (mycleaningproducts.com)/rustrelease.com ( you can buy up to 55 gal)
Here are some that have acid and maybe not?
Jasco Prep & Primer does/Duplicolor ?/Loctite?/ Permatex 81849 & 81775 says compatible under body fillers?
Now using a product like this is not to stop blasting your parts even though the powder might do well? If its your part do what you want but for the customer you best do it as right as it can be and maybe this can help with a little insurance? Some of these products might just help keep you blasted part rust free even if none was there or you blasted it all gone. These products could also be good down in tubes that are hard to blast and you can't get the powder into the tube unless you are in the high end shop and got the wand to do it!
I have also heard of bike frames that rust from the inside HARLEY? Well you could drill a small hole put the none acid converter in and slosh it around and then drain it out and let it air dry the best it can and I would say let your oven help on this one and then seal the hole and it should be good longer than the rider would live.
Now as a note to how good some of these could work and all depends on the product. 18 years ago my son had replaced the front clip on his Ford truck. The clip was imported and had a black sealer on it. Well as norm for him he never did any thing to it and then he moved away and then said I will get something I need if you will put my truck in primer. Well the cab was no problem but I DA and DA on the surface rust coming through and gave up and used a rust converter that was copied after one they use in England. I did what it said do and when it was done I put on three coats of lacquer primer. Well he did it again. Didn't do any thing to it. Well its back home now and just a little lite rust trying to come back again. Not dag bad. Just wish he had at least put some dag paint on it and it would have been fine.
Nope I have not used any yet under powder. I know the powder is going to stick to it. That's a no brainier but how well it holds up under powder or affecting powder down the line? I don't really see a problem. Its on my 72 MC that I restored 20 years ago and some of the steel parts on my 72 Vette I did the same year but what I used can't be bought any more and I have the last gal the man made from that time. I keep it for my stuff
I do have some acid free coming in and I am going to test and probably use it on these wheels. I don't want them coming back.
What got me back into this are these 5 30's spoke wheels that almost impossible to get to with blasting. Just ain't goina happen. They need dipping to soak into the mounts of the spokes.
I have be using products like this from the late 70's under auto filler and primer and painting especially when blasting was out of the question or just no way to get to it. Never had a problem if done right and using a good product. I tried over the years a bunch of them.
Now you old/young hard core PCers might say no way I am using that sht and then I say just work your "A" off and hope I guess or pay out the nose for what you do use? Not my pocket and not my time but its yours. Also this can help smaller guys with small areas to work in.
Now a lot of these rust killers have an acid part to them and they might work without a problem if retreated correct before coating. Some I know little about. You can neutralize acid.
Here are some that are acid free.
EW rust dissolver/organic rust treatment (mycleaningproducts.com)/rustrelease.com ( you can buy up to 55 gal)
Here are some that have acid and maybe not?
Jasco Prep & Primer does/Duplicolor ?/Loctite?/ Permatex 81849 & 81775 says compatible under body fillers?
Now using a product like this is not to stop blasting your parts even though the powder might do well? If its your part do what you want but for the customer you best do it as right as it can be and maybe this can help with a little insurance? Some of these products might just help keep you blasted part rust free even if none was there or you blasted it all gone. These products could also be good down in tubes that are hard to blast and you can't get the powder into the tube unless you are in the high end shop and got the wand to do it!
I have also heard of bike frames that rust from the inside HARLEY? Well you could drill a small hole put the none acid converter in and slosh it around and then drain it out and let it air dry the best it can and I would say let your oven help on this one and then seal the hole and it should be good longer than the rider would live.
Now as a note to how good some of these could work and all depends on the product. 18 years ago my son had replaced the front clip on his Ford truck. The clip was imported and had a black sealer on it. Well as norm for him he never did any thing to it and then he moved away and then said I will get something I need if you will put my truck in primer. Well the cab was no problem but I DA and DA on the surface rust coming through and gave up and used a rust converter that was copied after one they use in England. I did what it said do and when it was done I put on three coats of lacquer primer. Well he did it again. Didn't do any thing to it. Well its back home now and just a little lite rust trying to come back again. Not dag bad. Just wish he had at least put some dag paint on it and it would have been fine.
Nope I have not used any yet under powder. I know the powder is going to stick to it. That's a no brainier but how well it holds up under powder or affecting powder down the line? I don't really see a problem. Its on my 72 MC that I restored 20 years ago and some of the steel parts on my 72 Vette I did the same year but what I used can't be bought any more and I have the last gal the man made from that time. I keep it for my stuff

I do have some acid free coming in and I am going to test and probably use it on these wheels. I don't want them coming back.
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