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  • PID problems

    Well I got the PID all hooked up and.....wait for it..... NOTHING. Of course, just my luck.

    I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I double checked all the connections, and it all seems good. I put it in auto tune like it recommends and all it does is blink "AT" then "400" for ever. I can't feel any heat coming out of the elements at all. I let it go for a half hour like this and still nothing. Put it in manual and nothing. I thought it might be the alarm settings and i can get them to turn off, but I'm not 100% sure what the hell I'm doing with them.

    Anyone have an idea? or can talk me through this on the phone?

    My poor customer is getting ancy that I'm not getting his vintage record player done by the weekend

    Thanks
    Rob

  • #2
    Re: PID problems

    You know, by golly mine did that about 2 months ago. I thought it was flaking out so I ordered a new one-
    just as soon as I did the original started working again.

    I don't know for sure if this is what fixed it or not, but what I did was go from the logic that the default values had become corrupted. So, I went thru the settings, and adjusted all of them away from the default. I them removed the power, powered it up and started a cycle. then I went back into the settings and readjusted them all back to default.

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    • #3
      Re: PID problems

      Originally posted by rbroker
      Well I got the PID all hooked up and.....wait for it..... NOTHING. Of course, just my luck.

      I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I double checked all the connections, and it all seems good. I put it in auto tune like it recommends and all it does is blink "AT" then "400" for ever. I can't feel any heat coming out of the elements at all. I let it go for a half hour like this and still nothing. Put it in manual and nothing. I thought it might be the alarm settings and i can get them to turn off, but I'm not 100% sure what the hell I'm doing with them.

      Anyone have an idea? or can talk me through this on the phone?

      My poor customer is getting ancy that I'm not getting his vintage record player done by the weekend

      Thanks
      Rob
      The first time I hooked mine up I had the same problem. What I had wrong was the pid to contractor. I was thinking the pid supplied voltage positive and negative from it's power feed. It doesn't It's just a switch. You have to give it something to switch on and off. Make sure you have positve from the pid and ground from your power source to the contractor/relay. Or negative to the pid and voltage to the relay. Run a hot wire to the pid contractor/relay terminal and then to the contractor/relay. Or ssr for that matter.

      Harley

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      • #4
        Re: PID problems

        I'm not sure I follow you. Can you draw/post a crude mockup?

        I have the + and - from the PID into one side of the SSR. then I have the 240V coming from a fuse into the input of the SSR, and 2 wires on the output side going to each end of each element.

        I thought all the PID did was tell the SSR to open and close the switch??? The SSR is grounded to the case via screws.

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: PID problems

          I dunno if this will help you but here is the wiring diagram I used to wire my oven and PID.

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          • #6
            Re: PID problems

            Its hard to read but it appears to be wired similar to that. At least the SSR and PID portions. I don't have all the lights and fancy stuff.

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            • #7
              Re: PID problems

              Here I will post a link to the big pic of it for you so you can read it better.

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              • #8
                Re: PID problems

                I think we all used that schematic. It's a good one for sure.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: PID problems

                  Originally posted by rbroker
                  I'm not sure I follow you. Can you draw/post a crude mockup?

                  I have the + and - from the PID into one side of the SSR. then I have the 240V coming from a fuse into the input of the SSR, and 2 wires on the output side going to each end of each element.

                  I thought all the PID did was tell the SSR to open and close the switch??? The SSR is grounded to the case via screws.
                  How many wires do you have coming from the pid to the ssr 1 or 2? Should only be one. Also was your pid setup to run a contractor relay or a ssr? Mine came setup to run a contractor relay of which I use. You may have to enter the program and switch this setting to ssr. Your instructions should tell you how. It won't work if it's not. If you got the pid from Auberns then they will help you. I got mine from them and they were very helpful.

                  Harley

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                  • #10
                    Re: PID problems

                    Off the top of my head there is two wires going from the PID to the SSR. One black and one white, but I think he used whatever color wire was laying around.

                    I'll look at the programming when I get home from work, and then call Auber because I'm stumped.

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                    • #11
                      Re: PID problems

                      I'm home from work now if I can help I will. Just make sure it's wired like the diaghram with one wire from the PID to the SSR. And if you got yours from Auber thats where I got mine. I bet it's setup for a contractor. It's easy to switch the setting. On the website the instructions are on the bottom of the page for each PID they sell. So if you don't have one you can down load it.

                      Harley

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                      • #12
                        Re: PID problems

                        Hey rbroker, Did you get your PID straightened out?

                        Harley

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                        • #13
                          Re: PID problems

                          Originally posted by rbroker
                          then I have the 240V coming from a fuse into the input of the SSR, and 2 wires on the output side going to each end of each element.
                          you mean one end of each element?

                          should have a neutral from the other end going to your junction box from the main power line
                          CHRIS
                          Craved Coatings - Australia

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                          • #14
                            Re: PID problems

                            Its running! A slight wiring oversight on the incoming 240V inside the oven case. Wired it right and 400 degrees in 21 min!

                            Thanks for the replies guys, I'm glad I know I can get help when its needed.

                            Rob

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: PID problems

                              Originally posted by rbroker
                              Its running! A slight wiring oversight on the incoming 240V inside the oven case. Wired it right and 400 degrees in 21 min!

                              Thanks for the replies guys, I'm glad I know I can get help when its needed.

                              Rob
                              My oven used to take that long till I added another element in the bottom that I have on a switch so it can be cut off when temp is reached. Sure makes things a lot quicker. Just have to watch it if parts are lower and they could over heat quicker. THATS IT I NEED A ROTISSERIE IN MY OVEN

                              Then me Bake my cookies fasters

                              Comment

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