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  • Originally posted by weaselchew View Post
    http://www.powderbuythepound.com/ALUMINUM_BASECOAT.html
    http://www.powderbuythepound.com/CRY...OSS_CLEAR.html

    They are both polyester. The clear wasn't put on immediately, it was a few days to a week later.
    The long wait could be a contributor, but I still lean toward under cure after looking at the powder descriptions. Knowing they're both Polyesters, probably eliminates the incompatibility pretty well.... I don't think I've ever waited to shoot a second coat that long.... Something to try one day.

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    • what did i do wrong/how did i mess up?

      im new to this forum and powdercoating..hello im coating valvecovers, i used cryscoat to the parts then ogf grey primer coated perfect,then did the second coat with ss black wrinkle thats when i mess up....had a good ground and turned down the kv's and i was getting alot of round circles popping out the powder...but if i took a bare valve cover and coated it with black wrinkle without primer had no problem....please help im pulling my hair out...lol

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      • Originally posted by harrison32 View Post
        im new to this forum and powdercoating..hello im coating valvecovers, i used cryscoat to the parts then ogf grey primer coated perfect,then did the second coat with ss black wrinkle thats when i mess up....had a good ground and turned down the kv's and i was getting alot of round circles popping out the powder...but if i took a bare valve cover and coated it with black wrinkle without primer had no problem....please help im pulling my hair out...lol
        Probably not truly a good ground.... This is not unusual on subsequent coats. You need to make a clean bare spot to ground to again, after curing the first coat..... use a small round file (I good use for that little chainsaw file) usually will do the job. Just make sure the hook isn't interrupted by powder where it was hung on the first coat... sometimes the powder will melt in between the hook and thepart (Actually this is more common than not), and cause the issue you're having. The spots that are popping out are back ionization, and are caused by excessive charge on the surface of the first coat of powder, because there's no path to ground due to the aforementioned melting between thing.... Clean it up, and re-shoot. You'll be fine.

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        • thank you,that worked perfect

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          • Originally posted by harrison32 View Post
            thank you,that worked perfect
            At Last! Someone listened instead of trying to bypass the way to make things right! This makes me very happy, and Smiley!

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            • Interesting and valuable information.

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              • Good Stuff! We see that happen in the class room from time to time. That is a great answer and right spot on for the fix... Good call on the Ground.

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                • New on here but have been lurking for a long time.

                  Now the problem. Did some valve covers with PBTB pearly grapes color and it came out textured, not smooth. Surface was clean and perfect for coating, had very good adhesion, etc. Pre heated covers too. It just seemed like it didn't want to flow out.

                  But actually I went with it because it looked pretty awesome.

                  But anyway, why did this happen? I have one more part to do in this color but I don't want this textured look on it.

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                  • Hi sapper,
                    Well my friend I don't think you did anything wrong with The Pearly Grapes Powder. I took a look at the picture and clicked on Zoom, on our website, and it seems to look the same as the sample panels.
                    Here's the link http://www.powderbuythepound.com/THE_PEARLY_GRAPES/
                    If you want to go with a shinny-er gloss then I would use http://www.powderbuythepound.com/CRY...H_GLOSS_CLEAR/ or http://www.powderbuythepound.com/SUP...EAR_STARLIGHT/. Both of them will make your parts POP.

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                    • Originally posted by SCOTTRODS View Post
                      Probably not truly a good ground.... This is not unusual on subsequent coats. You need to make a clean bare spot to ground to again, after curing the first coat..... use a small round file (I good use for that little chainsaw file) usually will do the job. Just make sure the hook isn't interrupted by powder where it was hung on the first coat... sometimes the powder will melt in between the hook and thepart (Actually this is more common than not), and cause the issue you're having. The spots that are popping out are back ionization, and are caused by excessive charge on the surface of the first coat of powder, because there's no path to ground due to the aforementioned melting between thing.... Clean it up, and re-shoot. You'll be fine.
                      This sounds like a solution to a problem I had today after shooting my second coat over primer,been pulling my hair out looking for answers and hopefully this advice should help,will let you know how I get on when I re-shoot tommorow

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                      • I was wondering what kind of rag you used to wipe with the part with? It looks like there might be some lint in the finish. Also, what was in the rag? The part seems to have bubbles like a solvent was left on the part during the second coat pre~cleaning procedure/wipe down.

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                        • Ok guys, we're shooting on an ES03, black chrome from PBTP, we know our ground is good. Parts were outgassed for an hour at 450. We just keep getting these specks. We added a dessicant air dryer and another air filter to the system. We are varying the voltage, varying the wave board, air pressures, everything we can think of and this is what we get. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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                          • SpectraCoatTM Surface Defects and Trouble Shooting

                            I'm going to post A piece out of our class room instruction manual. This will tell us what is up with your project. This finish can come out of any gun. Check it out:

                            SpectraCoatTM
                            Surface Defects and Trouble Shooting:

                            BITS
                            Description: A contamination which does not melt or flow during the curing process. It will stand out from the cured powder film.

                            Reason: Failures on the substrate, sintering contamination from conveyor and transport-chains, contamination in the powder, and/or insufficient surface prep/cleaning.
                            Sintering: The tendency of some powder coating materials to agglomerate/clump during storage, contamination from the oven.

                            Solution: Substrate Surface Preparation should be checked. Use a sieve sized @ #60 250 microns to separate the useful powder partials from useless contaminating partials.

                            HAZE

                            Description: Glossy surfaces have a clear and bright appearance. Poor powder dispersion and/or contamination with other powder partials can create a hazy sheen. The effect is called haze.

                            Reason: Contamination with other inconsistent coatings, the powder itself, poor surface treatment, and/or oven gases.

                            Solution: Surface treatment processes should be checked and corrected. Also oven gases vented.

                            CRATER

                            Description: Circular Type Craters/Cavities also called fish eyes.

                            Reason: Oil, wax and/or silicon residues. Contaminated powder. Insufficient cleaning of the substrate surface, inconsistent material coming from environment, wet surfaces, left behind residues from an inconsistent pre treatment process.

                            Solution: Shop air and substrate surface should be examined. Clean Shop air and wipe sub straight, use micro fiber towels and Denatured Alcohol.

                            COLOR DIFFERENCE

                            Description: Color differences seen by the naked eye or computer.

                            Reason: Different Curing Schedules, and/or film mill thicknesses in the coating itself. Wrong Powder.

                            Solution: Use the same curing Schedules and film thickness on all of the part(s). If at all possible coat and cure all the parts together. Cleaning the System and related equipment should be done on a regular basis.

                            YELLOWING

                            Description: The color has yellowed placed next to the target color.

                            Reason: Oven Temperature is too high or the Oven Time too long. The coating itself may be wrong, an possible uneven film thickness.

                            Solution: Lower the Oven Temperature. Shorten the Oven Time. Make sure the film thicknesses are adjusted to recommended thickness.


                            GLOSS DIFFERENCE

                            Description: Different gloss levels seen by visual comparison.

                            Reason: Over or Under curing, Wrong Powder.

                            Solution: Follow the curing Schedule provided by your Powder Supplier.

                            ORANGE PEEL

                            Description: A surface defect that looks like the skin of an Orange Peel.

                            Reason: High Oven Temperatures and short curing time. Low or High film thickness, High KV settings, incompatible powder formulation.
                            Solution: Heating rate should be decreased if too high, Increase or Decrease film thickness to recommended specs. Check gun parameters and grounding of the work piece. Use longer spray times, more dense powder clouds, and slow down the curing schedule.
                            PINHOLE

                            Description: Small pinhole-like defect which appears on the film surface. Most noticeable with high film thicknesses.

                            Reason: High Mill thickness and/or moisture content of the powder, damp sub straight surface, and solvent treatment residues left behind on the porous substrate.

                            Solution: Film thickness should be adjusted to recommended specs. Sub Straight preparation process should be checked. Appropriate powder coatings designed for sub straights that expel gas should be used. An OGF Primer is recommended.

                            POOR MECHANICAL RESISTANCE

                            Description: Cracking or Flaking during deformation.

                            Reason: An uneven Phosphate Film. Residue dust, solvent, and lint from the pre-treatment process. Insufficient curing time, high film mill, or an inappropriate powder.

                            Solution: Surface treatment processes should be checked. Oven temperature should be increased if too low; film thickness should be adjusted to your Powder Suppliers Specs.
                            Last edited by PowderGuru; 05-07-2014, 10:50 AM.

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                            • Hello all, have the ES02-WF using it today and for some reason when we have the unit on and powder is being sprayed a sudden high output or large "puff" of powder comes out of the gun.
                              Any thoughts on why this happens???? I'm laying ultimate chrome and I've wasted a ton of powder because it's just randomly getting dumped on the parts.
                              Using a fluidizer and triple checked connections, played with different PSI's for aux air, feed air and the PSI fr our compressor.
                              Anyone have any incite???
                              At this point I think something is wrong with the unit?
                              I'm at a loss.
                              Wasted about 1/4lb of powder.
                              Last edited by mick_acp; 04-25-2014, 10:14 PM.

                              Comment


                              • Good Morning,

                                Here are your Questions in Red :

                                Hello all have the ES02-WF using it today and for some reason when we have the unit on and powder is being sprayed a sudden high output or large "puff" of powder comes out of the gun.
                                Any thoughts on why this happens????


                                Answers in Blue:

                                Check the air pressure from the compressor. The pressure may be rising and dropping; Clicking the gun trigger like using a liquid paint gun; Too much powder in the Hopper; Too much air fluidizing the powder; Unbalanced Aux and Feed air.

                                I'm laying ultimate chrome and I've wasted a ton of powder because it's just randomly getting dumped on the parts.

                                Stop blowing powder and turn all of the air regulators off. Fluidizing air should set at 0.5 PSI on the little 2 lb. Hopper. Aux/Dose should start around 4 to 5 PSI and basically stay near those pressure levels because the small size of the Hopper. Feed air will show between 8 and 12 PSI to form a working powder cloud.

                                Using a fluidizer and triple checked connections, played with different PSI's for aux air, feed air and the PSI from your compressor.
                                Anyone have any incite???

                                Use the starting points above…

                                At this point I think something is wrong with the unit?

                                We don’t know that yet…

                                I'm at a loss. Wasted about 1/4 lb of powder.

                                Set ups are usually done with cheap powder or reclaimed waste powder… have look at this switch it may help you when making set up changes on the fly…

                                https://www.powderbuythepound.com/Fe...Control-Valve/


                                Attached Files
                                Last edited by PowderGuru; 04-28-2014, 11:40 AM.

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